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The thing that gets me is that with a few modifications you have a great track bike.
thats a brilliant track frame and an alright set of track wheels. Stick on a proper set of drops and a better saddle and take off that stupid looking brake :)
trailstar:thats a brilliant track frame and an alright set of track wheels. Stick on a proper set of drops and a better saddle and take off that stupid looking brake :)
The Arione is a great saddle. It's just rammed way too far back in the rails on that bike.
tried it a few times and never been a fan of it, i dont like the length. It does give more seating positions however, i suppose this could be advantageous but i defiantely prefer a shorter one-position seat.
i bet anything on that bike would look a thousand times better with the right seatpost.

just flicking through fixedgeargallery.com and there is so much anti-porn out there. Silly amounts of anti-porn.
Bloody hell. Thay frame retails for about $3000+ !
rusty:
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lol, I love how the front wheel is almost touching the frame and the rear - despite massive cutout of seat tube- is right at the end of the drop outs.
Aye, it looks a bit ridiculous there's no doubt. I really don't understand the placement of handlebar ornaments either. Red chain also terrible. I really like those planet x wheels but I feel they should only be used on a TT/triathlon bike. Has the integrated headset been taken off and replaced with something inappropriate? Looks like there is a recess at the bottom of the headtube where the fork crown should be sitting.
im amazed they got a brake on that bike. I wouldnt expect a frame set like that to be drilled for a brake.
it looks like a clip on brake
It looks like a 1" steerer, so its likely not to have been an integrated headset. I could be wrong, but a lot of modern track and TT bikes have gone back to 1".
edit: Yeah its a 1" headset for sure.
Also about the wheel tucked all the way into the cutout isn't entirely more aero. Current thinking is a cut out with a small gap is more aero as the air cleans up a bit before hitting the wheel. Or at least that is what Look and a few others are doing these days with their aero orientated TT and road frames.
^^oh god, youre right. Thats even worse then I thought.
euan whats the benefit of a 1" headset compared to 1 1/8" ? Why are TT bikes going back to it?
Thinner profile into the wind. They might not strictly be going to 1" but you will see more bikes like the Spesh Shiv, Giant Trinity and so on going either 1" or tapered 1 - 1 1/8" headtubes.
my dolan steel fxe is 1" threadless. way ahead of the curve.
ah ok, getcha
My yellow bike's 1" threadless but I shimmed it up to 1 1/8th as I am a tard, or because its impossible to get nice 1" threadless stems.
islipaway:My yellow bike's 1" threadless but I shimmed it up to 1 1/8th as I am a tard, or because its impossible to get nice 1" threadless stems.
Eh? Inverse shim?
Or do you mean you shimmed the stem?
If so hardly retarded. Lots of 1 1/8" road stems come with 1" shim.
euan:Thinner profile into the wind. They might not strictly be going to 1" but you will see more bikes like the Spesh Shiv, Giant Trinity and so on going either 1" or tapered 1 - 1 1/8" headtubes.
That 1/8" makes all the difference to the drag profile.
Well it must do if they are going in the opposite direction with TT frames compared to the road frames. I think the Transition went from 1 1/8" to the smaller tapered steerer on the Shiv, where as the SL3 went to 1.25/1.5" taper
euan:Well it must do if they are going in the opposite direction with TT frames compared to the road frames. I think the Transition went from 1 1/8" to the smaller tapered steerer on the Shiv, where as the SL3 went to 1.25/1.5" taper
It doesn't really matter when all the frames come with a fork and a headset when you buy them. These days a headset is a headset. It's not a place where people spend money any more (except in our backward fixed-gear world).
islipaway:My yellow bike's 1" threadless but I shimmed it up to 1 1/8th as I am a tard, or because its impossible to get nice 1" threadless stems.
Does anyone have any experience of this sort of inverse shim/quill stem adaptor :

I'm thinking of putting a 1 1/8" bmx stem on a 22.2mm threaded fork.
I can't see the photo but I sold a quil to ahead adapter to Conn artist and I think its working fine.
Cool- thanks.
islipaway:I can't see the photo but I sold a quil to ahead adapter to Conn artist and I think its working fine.
correct, had to tighten the allen bolt on it tight as feck tho as it was a bit juddery when braking. but since then no probs at all.
Nice.
They basically do what you'd expect them to do.
Titanium ming ... seen on stw


avert thine eyes
I think the Lynskey helix frames are lush. Such nice workmanship on them as well. They are the masters of titanium bike frames. Though it looks better on a road bike.
none of that twisty bullshit for me thank you.
Worse than AIDS
Who posted this in here? Heathen! This is going straight back in the porn thread!
is that a orthpedic pedal aid
I'd love a fixed gear folder. I was outbid on one last year on the 'bay (too lazy to build my own) by one bid. They'd be perfect to go to and from the pub on and, due to being totally undesirable, unlikely to get stolen.
They're great fun to ride too. :)
I want a raleigh 20 stowaway

Someone's had a tubebender for christmas.
Bloke on the framebuilders digest made this. Hump in the toptube is to let your shoulder rest further forward for shouldering in CX. and the rest of the 'humps' are for fun. Looks "unique"
But the hump would be nowhere near the c of g surely?
Person 1:
"This was rebuilt from a Univega comfort frame, ok straight-gage tubing for bending, moving the st and so on stiffened the bb area a lot, not expected, need to tweak trail, used the existing fork and it's around 43mm rake, fine but I reduced the ht angle for dirt ... rare rainy day for its first longer ride, 15-miler, gobbles bumps. This is my do-everything bike until I make the next one, has rack & fender mounts for shopping, built as a two-speed, the rear 7-speed uses an old 105 derailleur as the tensioner, a 1/4" anchor bolt with wings works too good for changing gear in back, perfect Phoenix setup so that's the design name for it, Phoenix.
>
> The humpback is to allow the shoulder to move forward, works really well, the ht is almost on the chest if you want, but it's too high and most frames use compact ht's so my next frame I'm moving the open area down more on a short ht frame and will flip the st so it opens for the elbow going through, the Phoenix frame looked better so #1 used that choice.
>
> The st attaching to the bent dt is quite the structure, still getting to understand it, would never have tried this idea with new tubes but as a framebuilder for sure all I'll be doing is one-off, fitted rebuilds from recycled bikes, pretty fun and fast way to create a bike, saving the original ore-to-steel-to-bicycle resources.
"
Person 2:
"Tom,
That's a very interesting and unique looking bike. I appreciate your effort in recycling an old frame and your ability to make all those bends. It looks like it would have a smooth ride. I don't quite get the humpback bend toward the front of the TT. I'm not a cyclocrosser but it seems like it would be out of balance there, with the heavier rear being difficult to support. It seems like you'd want the humpback toward the rear of the TT. Nice work,
-Cliff"
Person 1:
"To explain the humpback, like you say it makes it heavier to the rear when the shoulder is that far forward and in cyclo-cross that's the point, to run upright, not leaned over with the bike across the back.
The latter is a more balanced and easy-to-maintain position if you are just trying to carry the bike, but it's more tiring to run up bent over, and it's also much easier to trip over a barrier on a hill because you can't raise your knees high enough.
Cyclo-cross is a made up sport, short steep hills are used in 2-3 places per lap along with 10+ dismounts per lap with most of those just using the tt to raise the bike over the barriers.
So, there are techniques to get the shoulder forward, either wrapping the arm around the ht to the left bar, or, under the dt which is a more common way to hold and in the older tradition of frame geometry there's enough clearance between the tt-dt to let the shoulder go to a good spot.
But, when it's a compact frame & short ht it's impossible to get the shoulder that far forward, so, riders with these frames go by with the bike draped over the back and leaned over, more work per lap is a way to look at it.
The first try put the highest point too high & a bit too far forward, but my overall reaction is that it works really well and is a lot more comfortable to carry by being curved to the shoulder.
The st was first designed turned around for more elbow room, I liked the look of this way better, still fun on the single-track around here because carries are rarely needed, set up with road brakes for the lack of mud ...
I expected a "smooth" ride as well, maybe give when you land jumps, sprint or something, just tested the side flex with a foot on the pedal against my stumpjumper and too close to call on that, so, overall the thing seems to work about the same as a diamond, probably from the straight-gage being more metal than needed is my guess.
tom mallard "
did you mean to put it in anti? You're taste confounds us all! :P

We have a winner!!! ^^^

On a lecture presentation the other day.
Looks like a high velocity dildo on the front.
i want those reflectors!
Joshvegas:i want those reflectors!
That's because you're an idiot.
rusty:That's because you're an idiot.
repped